•
PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.
We will continue to update our Website with articles and enter current gardening events in our website Event Calendar. All the best wishes for 2024 and beyond.
•
•
by George Papadelis
In our quest for beautiful shade gardens, we often separate foliage plants from flowering plants. The attractive foliage of plants like hosta and ferns is used to provide season-long interest. This, along with an occasional shade-loving evergreen like boxwood or holly, make up the foundation of the garden. The list of flowering plants for shade is much longer than most people think. It includes, but is not limited to, primrose, monkshood, anemone, goatsbeard, plumbago, bleeding heart, turtlehead, foam flower, true forget-me-not, globeflower, perennial lobelia, waxbells, and many, many more. These should be sprinkled throughout the garden to provide occasional splashes of color from spring to fall. Some perennials, however, may have both beautiful leaves and beautiful flowers. This list includes lenten rose, lungworts, coral bells, bugbane, astilbe, barrenwort, bergenia and many, many more. These plants are very useful, especially where space is limited and a huge variety of plants is not practical.
Alchemilla mollis or lady’s mantle is another plant with a dose of both great leaves and great flowers. Its silky, olive green leaves are up to 4 inches across. This leaf color is unique and valuable for the shade but my favorite feature goes beyond their color. Lady’s mantle sparkles whenever water is on the leaf surface. With rain, morning dew, or the last watering, droplets of water bead like diamonds glowing in the shade. One definition of the word “mantle” describes a cloak-like garment. The plant’s common name is derived from its resemblance to the sparkling jewels of a “lady’s mantle.”
As gardeners strive to combine leaves of different textures, lady’s mantle is especially valuable. The leaves have a rare color and feel that is perfect alongside contrasting plants. In the shade, the bold foliage of almost any blue, green, or bi-colored hosta looks perfect with the light green leaves of lady’s mantle. Ferns offer fine-textured leaves to contrast. In light shade, the sword-like, deep green leaves of Siberian iris look stunning near lady’s mantle. This is a particularly effective combination since the purple flowers of a Siberian iris like ‘Caesar’s Brother’ appear while lady’s mantle has begun bearing its chartreuse flowers in June.
Speaking of flowers, lady’s mantle also produces billowing sprays of small chartreuse flowers from June to July. Chartreuse has been and continues to be a very popular color in and out of the garden. Light colored flowers like these are especially bright in shady gardens. There are several other late spring and early summer bloomers available for creating a riot of early season color. Besides the Siberian iris mentioned above, many astilbes, perennial geraniums, campanulas, and coral bells would make great flowering companions. That said, companions are not mandatory; lady’s mantle has the merits to exist all by itself as a border around shrubs or a perennial garden. It may also be planted more densely and used as a groundcover.
Lady’s mantle is versatile and easy to grow, preferring moist soil. This is often created when amending clay soils with organic soil amendments such as sphagnum peat moss, aged pine bark, or compost. It prefers part sun or part shade, but will also grow well in full shade and even full sun if it is not allowed to dry out. This plant can grow almost anywhere! Plants typically form mounds 12 to 18 inches tall which should be spaced about 18 to 24 inches apart. If plants are allowed to dry out or if growth becomes too leggy, the leaves may be cut back a few inches above the soil. New leaves will emerge, and in two to three weeks, a beautiful mass of lush foliage will reappear.
The flowers of lady’s mantle make great cut flowers that may also be dried for floral arrangements. Just like the garden, the chartreuse blossoms are stunning when combined with colors such as blue, violet, or rose.
I have always felt that this plant is terribly underused in American gardens. Its combination of beautiful foliage and flowers are often overlooked. In the gardens of England, where plants bearing mediocre foliage are rarely tolerated, this plant is quite popular. Try one in the sun or the shade. Plant it in combinations or as a border. Just add water and enjoy the sparkling and shimmering of your lady’s mantle.
George Papadelis is the owner of Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, MI.
Botanical name: Alchemilla mollis (al-keh-MILL-uh MOLL-is)
Plant type: Perennial
Plant size: 12-24 inches tall, 18-24 inches wide
Habit: Mounding
Hardiness: Zone 4
Flower color: Chartreuse
Flower size: Clusters of tiny flowers
Bloom period: June-July
Leaf color: Olive green
Leaf size: 4 inches wide
Light: Shade to sun; provide plenty of moisture if in sun
Soil: Well-drained, prefers moist soil
Uses: Specimen perennial; shade plant combinations; edging plant
Companion plants: Hostas, ferns, iris, coral bells, astilbe, many other shade plants
Remarks: Water beads on the leaves for an amazing sparkle effect; leaves have a silky texture; beautiful foliage and flowers; can self-seed in the garden
•
by Jean and Roxanne Riggs
As more and more people are discovering the joys of gardening in containers, both indoors and in the garden, the use of herbs in the containers has also grown in popularity. Many of the woody-stemmed herbs are especially well-suited to being grown and trimmed into artistic shapes, and the grower is doubly rewarded with a beautiful plant that can be fragrant and useful in the kitchen. Herbal topiaries require time and commitment but are among the most lovely of all potted plants. They let the herb gardener experience different plant habits and needs, along with developing creative ways to display a natural herb.
How to plant and maintain a topiary
Herb plants that are to be trained into topiaries will need the best care that you can give them. Adequate light is important, so plan on giving them at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. They must have sunlight or grow lights during the winter months when they are indoors. Pay attention to the soil in which you are growing them and make sure they have excellent drainage. Clay pots with holes in the bottom are very useful as they help with drainage; you can line the bottom inch of the pot with stones or broken pot pieces to make it even better. One of the high quality soilless mixes available at garden centers is the best choice for a growing medium. Once the plant is established and growing well, you will have to fertilize it regularly since plants grown in containers have no way of getting nutrients unless you add them. A slow-release fertilizer is recommended. Watering is very important; if the soil gets dry to the touch, you must water thoroughly. Relying on the rain will not work and you cannot sit the pot in water or it will rot the roots. Misting encourages molds and mildew on leaves. A good drenching with a watering can or watering wand attached to a hose will really do the job. In cold climates, herbal topiaries are not hardy and must be kept in good growing conditions year round. Topiaries should be moved inside before the first frost in the fall. The ideal temperatures would be 65 degrees or higher in the daytime, and 55 degrees or higher at night.
Herb plant choices
Herb plants that make good candidates to be grown artistically include most of the woody-stemmed varieties:
• Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) for the upright topiaries and prostrate rosemary (R. officinalis ‘Prostratus’) for training into the more intricate shapes like hearts and circles, as well as bonsai.
• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, L. lanata, L. dentata and others) although the constant removal of the tips to shape the topiary may eliminate the flowers.
• Thyme (Thymus) has upright varieties that are very good for people with limited space because of their small size.
• Germander (Teucrium) with its tiny fragrant leaves that resemble oak leaves.
• Sage (Salvia officinalis) in its many colored varieties or pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) with its fruity aroma.
• Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) with its strong, sweet lemon fragrance and flavor—just imagine the shocked look on the faces of your guests when you pick a leaf from your prized topiary to flavor your tea!
• Myrtle (Myrtus communis) in its compact or variegated forms.
• Bay (Laurus nobilis) which is a classic shape and the largest of the plants listed here.
• Savory (Satureja montana) has shiny leaves and good taste; reputed to have been named after “satyr” for its aphrodisiac qualities.
• Scented geranium (Pelargonium) with its many varieties, although we recommend that you stay with the smaller-leaved types. Don’t bother with annuals since their short life span makes it foolish to spend your time pruning and trimming.
Creating your topiary
Many of the above plants come in beautiful variegated leaf varieties. However, we stay away from the yellow-leaved types since they sometimes look sick or uncared for in this type of use. Select young plants, from a reliable herb farm or nursery, that are tall and have a straight center stem if you want them to grow upright into the lollypop or poodle shape, or lax and trailing stems if you want them to grow on a wire form. The new plant should be transferred into a 4- or 5-inch clay pot with the soilless mix after purchase.
To start the single ball topiary, which consists of foliage clipped into a tight ball on the top of a sturdy stem, you should begin trimming the lowest leaves and branches. At least 1/3 of the plant’s foliage must remain so it will continue to grow and thrive. Keep doing this until the plant has grown to the height you want it. When the proper height is achieved, pinch the tip off. Place a bamboo stake that is just shorter than the plant into the pot to keep the plant stem straight. Use a few twist ties to loosely attach it to the stake, but don’t strangle the plant as it grows. Now cut off the bottom branches and clip the other branches to start the shape of the ball. During this part of the training process, the plant looks less than lovely. However, it will quickly fill in with new leaves and small branches and look like the art work you had in mind when you started. The same things should be done for the other shapes too, like the double ball or the cone, keeping in mind the ultimate shape and form that you want the plant to achieve. If you make a mistake (and who doesn’t?) don’t worry, the plant will grow back and give you a second chance. It just might take a little longer.
Tools that help
Even the beginner needs some basic tools to use. A really good, sharp pair of garden scissors is a great asset. Be prepared to spend $20 to $45 for these. Stay away from the large pruners for now. A pair of garden tweezers is handy for removing dead leaves and other debris. Bamboo stakes or a preformed topiary wire shape are necessary right from the start since the selection of the plants to be used depends on what the ultimate size and shape of the topiary will be. Plant ties or twist ties, preferably green, that can be cut to the sizes necessary are essential. For some of the heavier stems it might be necessary to use a wire to keep the shape desired. Clay pots are good and are heavy enough to support the taller topiaries. If the wind blows one over, double pot the plant with a second pot at least two to three inches larger than the interior pot. Layer the bottom of the outer pot with pebbles, and fill the sides with the pebbles after the interior pot has been placed into the second pot. Another trick is to run a longer bamboo stake through one of the drainage holes and down into the ground to keep them from blowing about too much.
If you are going to give one of your beauties away as a gift, be sure to include a “care tag” for the lucky recipient. Include the name of the plant and a recipe if it is a culinary herb, and basic care instructions of light, water, temperature, and clipping so that they will enjoy their topiary for a long time.
Jean and Roxanne Riggs operated Sunshine Farm and Garden in Commerce Township, MI.
Copyright 1996-2024 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.