I have moss growing in my lawn. Why is that? Is it a problem? Should I get rid of it? If so, how?

Moss, like any other weed, is very opportunistic – where the ground is bare and conditions are somewhat favorable, it will grow. Moss can be very beautiful in the right setting, but in the lawn it is a weed.

Moss grows in most any soil, in sun or shade, under acid or alkaline soil conditions. It tends to do best where the soil is slightly to heavily compacted and where it is frequently moist.

Moss hugs the ground tightly but has no root system. Large areas can simply be raked off. Burn-off type killers such as Security Moss and Mildew Killer, and Scott’s Moss Control for Lawns quickly turn the moss brown. It will then disintegrate into the soil or can be raked away.

To prevent the moss from growing back, loosen the soil, aerate if practical, and reseed the large spots. Remember, your best deterrent against any weed (including moss) is a good, thick turf.

On the north side of my house, there is mature English ivy (6 or 7 years old) growing well in a 6 by 25 foot area. How can I get rid of the ivy and prep the area for planting? (I need more space for perennials!) I would rather not use herbicides, but pulling up all that ivy would be really tough. Any suggestions?

Unfortunately, English ivy is a very tough plant to remove without the use of an herbicide. As you stated in your question, pulling up all the English ivy is going to be difficult at best. Not only is it tough to physically remove the vine, it is going to be even tougher to remove all of the roots from under the ground. This plant can sprout back up from roots that are left in the ground, so it is very important to remove everything, which is not an easy task! English ivy is even hard to get rid of with your “average” herbicide. It is recommended to use a more powerful herbicide such as Bonide Poison Oak & Ivy Killer in accordance with the directions on the bottle.
With a plant as tough to remove as English ivy, the only real alternative is to use an herbicide. I hope this does not deter you from making more space for your perennials!

On a couple young trees in my yard, I noticed damage to their trunks, which are about 1 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter. In just a couple places on the trunks, it looks as if a knife started to slice into the bark and peel it back, like you would peel an apple. It’s not a string trimmer since these trees are in the middle of a perennial bed. My guess is that it is an animal that is sharpening its teeth. If it enjoyed the taste, wouldn’t it keep chewing? One tree is a Japanese maple (1 year old) and the other is a witch hazel (3 years old). How can I protect the young tree bark without harming the trees? Tree wrap seems futile since the animal would chew right through it?
Damage to trees often can heal over. Vertical tears are more likely to heal over than horizontal ones, such as string trimmer damage at the base of the tree. With a sharp knife, remove loose bark and create a smooth edge. Rough edges do not heal as quickly. Asphalt-based pruning tars should not be used as they make it more difficult for the tree to heal. Leaving the wound open is actually best. If you feel compelled to cover the wound, use a natural orange shellac. Plastic tree wraps can be used to protect trunks from animal damage. Deer and rabbit repellent, pepper sprays, and an array of other chemicals can be used as to discourage animal damage and feeding as well. As a last resort, fencing may be needed to discourage some animals.