I have grubs in my lawn and flower beds. I know how to treat my lawn but I’m not sure what to do about the flower beds.

White grubs are the larvae of various scarab (or chafer) beetles, including Japanese beetles, June, and May beetles. The larvae overwinter in the soil and pupate in early spring, with adults emerging in late spring to early summer. Michigan had a long, cool spring. This stalled the emergence of the adult beetles, which are currently devouring the landscape. The adult beetles are only susceptible to repeat insecticide applications. If you find a small infestation, hand-picking and dropping them into soapy water will suffice. However, adults are present through the entire growing season. It is important to be vigilant so adult beetles do not lay more eggs in the soil. The eggs are invulnerable. The grub larvae are susceptible to several kinds of granular insecticide sold specifically for lawn treatments for grub control. You can work this granular formulation into your flower beds as well. Remember, grubs feast on roots, which means perennials and ornamental shrubs are also on the menu, along with your lawn. As you work the soil in your flower beds, you can destroy grubs and pupas as you find them. That’s one less procreating eating machine in the landscape.

I am moving to a new house that is located on a freshwater lake. The backyard has three different levels that are built like stairs; they are large areas of land. What plants would be best suited for this environment, and which ones should I refrain from planting?

Your recognition of the impact on the lake is admirable. The sections you describe are known as bulwarks and are intended to prevent erosion of land into the lake. First and foremost, avoid the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Since they pass through the soil and are so close to the lake, they enter almost immediately. Just a couple of the effects are increased algae growth and killed fish. To avoid having to use fertilizers, stick with native plants (because they are native, they require little or no fertilizer to thrive), especially in the first three zones from the water’s edge to your lawn zone. In addition, plants (rather than lawn) will absorb fertilizer runoff before it hits the lake. If the lawn extends all the way out to the lake, remove at least 10 to 12 feet of lawn and replace it with native trees, ground cover, shrubs, ferns and wildflowers. The first few feet from the waterline needs to be water-loving plants (sedges, lady fern, etc.). The next 10 feet will require plants that prefer moist soil, but not wet. Finally, the last zone extends to the lawn. A variety of shade trees is important for this area. All of this does not mean you must create a barrier of plants that block your access or view; just try to use a combination that will allow continued viability of the lake and an enjoyable view for you.

With all of the winter injury this year my rhododendrons have lost many leaves. They are recovering now but the new leaves are much higher and reveal more of the woody stems. Is there a way to prune to encourage leaf development in the lower portion of the shrub?

Remove any branches that are winter-killed or damaged. In the spring, judiciously prune back half of the plant by about half their height. Leave the other half of the plant alone to reduce the shock. The following spring, perform the same procedure to the untouched half. You may have to forsake a few blossoms for a season in order to get lush growth established. Plant other perennials around the base to mask the bare branches until it fills in. Make sure your rhododendrons are watered regularly even in the fall so that they go into winter with adequate soil moisture. Also ensure adequate mulch, at least 3 inches deep. Re-evaluate your site conditions. You may need to provide protection from winter wind and sun that cause desiccation. Make sure the soil is well-amended with compost. Rhododendrons are actually light feeders. If the soil is properly enriched, they will get all their nutrients from the soil and will not require a rigorous fertilizing schedule. A healthy plant stands a far better chance against the unpredictability of Michigan winters.