Michigan Gardener - Your guide Great Lakes gardening: Garden Event Calendar / Expert Advice / Plant Profiles / Tree Care

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
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Winter injury on tree

August 30, 2010 •

We lost a beautiful, and formerly healthy, horn beam tree this spring. It did not shed its leaves last winter which it did normally. We still have not removed it as of mid-July; is there any chance it will come back? If not, what are the possible causes of its death?

This year we are seeing a lot of winter injury all around Michigan as a result of several events last winter. The warmer than usual fall, where trees were slow to lose their leaves, was followed by a cold snap (0 to -15) in early December. This sudden freeze killed a lot of young and/or (drought) stressed trees. Winter injury in Michigan is a common occurrence. Most winter injury is caused by cold snaps early or late in the dormant season or mid-winter thaws followed quickly by cold temperatures. When plants become cold acclimated in the fall, the cold hardiness begins at the shoot tips and progresses down the tree to the trunk and finally to the ground. Injury to the base of a tree often indicates that the injury took place early in the season, as the plant was hardening off for winter. Based on your description, the tree should be removed. If your tree survived, it would certainly have shown some sign of new growth by July.

Tips for dividing daylilies

August 29, 2010 •

My Stella d’Oro daylilies need to be divided. I would like to do it this fall. Do I have to remove and discard the center of each plant like I do with my Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’? Also, should I cut back the foliage after the division?

Make sure the daylilies actually need dividing. Many varieties, especially ‘Stella d’Oro’, can go several years before they need dividing. Check if they are crowded or lack flowers or vigor. Sometimes they just need a bit more deep watering (water that reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil) especially on hot days or a light mulch to help them retain moisture. They also need fertilizer to keep them blooming happily. This is especially true for larger clumps and those planted in light or sandy soils that leach badly. The best way to determine the fertilizer needs of your plants is to do a soil sample through your MSU Extension office. You can call or go to the office and pick up a soil sample kit. Otherwise a general fertilizer low in nitrogen such as 5-10-10 should be applied a few times throughout the spring and summer.

If you’ve now determined they do need dividing, fall is a good time because the roots will grow rapidly before next year’s flowering. Dig around the clump and make sure you dig up all of the roots, especially if you will be moving the plants to another area. Otherwise a small section of root may produce another plant in the original spot. Shake off the soil so you can see the roots. You do not need to discard any part of the clump unless it is diseased or does not look like it is actively growing; the roots should look white. Cut or break the clump into sections of 3 to 5 fans each. If it is a large clump, you may only want to cut it into quarters. A single section or fan will root, but it will take a long time to form a showy plant.

Cut the tops of the plants to about 8 inches and plant the daylilies at the same level they were growing before. Prepare the soil where you will plant the divisions by loosening it about 1 foot deep. Add organic matter if you have sandy soil. Dig the hole larger than the roots and make a mound in the center of the hole. Spread the roots over the mound, cover with soil, firm it in and water well. Space plants approximately 18 inches apart. You can cover with light mulch, but leave space around the base of the plant so the mulch doesn’t smother it.

Also read: Maximizing daylily blooms

MSU Extension: Daylilies are a smart choice for many difficult garden locations

Poplar tree seedlings

August 29, 2010 •

Is there any way to sterilize poplar trees so that they don’t produce those awful sticky pods or the white floating fuzzies? This was the worst year and clean up takes forever.

No, there isn’t. The best recommendation is to remove the tree and start over. The Eastern cottonwood (Populus deltoides) has little residential landscape value due to its messy habits and weed-like seedlings. Its soft, weak wood easily splits and breaks in storms. There are several cottonless (male) varieties available. But with the abundance of so many preferred tree species for homeowner use, it seems pointless to replant with a male version of an essentially scrap tree. If you remove your offensive tenant, consider the maple family for replacements. Avoid the quick-growing, overused silver maple that rivals the cottonwood in susceptibility to insect pests, diseases and weak wood. Also consider the European beech (Fagus sylvatica), which has many excellent cultivars available.

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