Flickr / sigusr0Fertilizing the plants

It is important to get your soil analyzed by your county MSU Extension, but in the absence of a soil test, apply one pound of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet one week before planting. Two weeks later sprinkle an additional two to three pounds of the 12-12-12 as a side dressing, making sure not to get it on the damp foliage.

The fertilization strategy changes after the first year. Fertilize the June-bearing plants immediately after harvest with 2 to 3 pounds of 12-12-12 per 100 square feet and avoid early spring fertilization because it can cause the plants to grow too fast and produce soft berries and a smaller yield.

Everbearing strawberries are fertilized the same as June-bearing plants in the planting year. During the subsequent years, the everbearing plants should be fertilized with 1/2 pound of 12-12-12 per 100 square feet, with applications made in early June, July, August and September. In total, about the same amount of fertilizer is used for both types of strawberries, but for the everbearing, the fertilizer is spread out over four applications throughout the growing season.

Flickr / sigusr0Training the plants

There are three training methods for strawberries: the hill system, the spaced runner system and the matted row system. The matted row system is the most common one for the backyard grower. It is the least labor intensive, but may yield smaller berries. Set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row with 3 to 4 feet between rows. The runners that develop from the mother plants root in a bed that is about 12 inches wide. If the bed gets overcrowded with plants less than 6 inches apart, thin by removing the weaker daughter plants. Daughter plants form from a mother plant 4 to 6 weeks after planting and then they root and fill out the row. The row width should be maintained at about 12 inches.

On June-bearing plants, it is important to remove the flowers the first season so that the plant’s energy is devoted to the daughter plants that are filling out the row. Of course, you won’t get any fruit the first season, but there is a big pay-off in the second season. On everbearing strawberries, it is important to remove the flower and fruit trusses for the first 60 days after planting. This will result in a small fall crop in the first year.

Come back tomorrow for more on fertilizing strawberries…

Flickr / sigusr0Planting & growing tips

Strawberries require full sun and need to be planted away from “frost pockets”—areas that are low-lying where cold air drains in the springtime. When choosing a site, avoid areas where strawberries, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants or peppers were planted within the last four years. These plants can act as host to a soil-borne disease called verticillium wilt. Sandy loam to loam soil that is high in organic matter and slightly acidic is preferred. The most important consideration is drainage, as strawberries have shallow roots and cannot tolerate any freestanding water. Lots of organic matter will improve drainage in clay soil and increase water-holding capacity in sandy soil.

Purchase plants that are certified disease-free instead of getting plants from family, friends and neighbors. These healthy plants will be large and have numerous light-colored roots. Plant them in early spring as soon as you have properly prepared the soil. Bare-root strawberries can be planted from late March to early May.

The holes should be big enough so that you can place the roots straight down and spread them out. The midpoint of the crown should be level with the soil surface. Tamp the soil lightly around the roots to get rid of any air pockets. Bare-rooted plants should not be allowed to dry out. They can be kept in a refrigerator at a temperature of 40 degrees. You can dip the plants in water while they are waiting to be planted, but don’t leave them soaking in the water.

Come back tomorrow for more on training strawberries…