PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.
We will continue to update our Website with articles and enter current gardening events in our website Event Calendar. All the best wishes for 2024 and beyond.
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Check out this recent story from NPR about Andrea Wulf and her new book, “Founding Gardeners: the Revolutionary Generation, Nature, and the Shaping of the American Nation.”
As British troops closed in on New York City in the fall of 1776, Gen. George Washington had something crucially important on his mind. Congress had ordered him to hold the city, but on the eve of the battle, he set aside his maps and documents and began a letter to the steward of his estate, Mount Vernon, detailing the construction of a new garden.
“What is more remarkable than the timing, really, is that he’s asking for only native species,” author Andrea Wulf tells All Things Considered guest weekend host Linda Wertheimer. “As if he wants to create an all-American garden where no English tree is allowed to claw its roots in the soil.”
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I stored cannas over the winter in an aluminum tin filled with peat moss. How do I know it they survived the storage OK? What should I look for? When and how should I replant them in the garden?
Cannas are generally easy plants to carry over as long as the tubers are not allowed to freeze and they do not dry out excessively. The ideal storage temperature is in the 50 to 60 degree range. Canna tubers stored in an unheated garage will freeze and be literally mush by spring. On the other hand, cannas stored in a hot closet in a paper bag become shriveled, dehydrated lumps by spring. This does not have to be the case!
To properly store cannas: Lift the cannas in the fall just before or right after the first light frost. Leave the tuber clumps together even if they have become large. Rinse off the excess soil from the tubers. Allow the foliage to dry, then detach the stems from the tubers. Store the tubers in sphagnum peat or vermiculite in a container that “breathes,” like a cardboard box (not plastic!). The trick here is to minimize air movement around the tuber.
If you’ve done it right, your tubers will be firm, yet plump. They should not be moldy or have a slimy coating. New shoots, or “eyes,” may be evident as tiny points on the tuber. Tubers may be divided prior to planting—maintain at least 2 to 3 eyes per piece. Dust the freshly cut pieces with micronized sulfur and allow to dry a day or two before planting to minimize the chance of rot. Plant them outside about the same time you would plant other hardy annuals—when the danger of frost is mostly gone (mid-May). To get a jump on the season, cannas can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks ahead of the last frost date.How
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