Michigan Gardener

SIGN UP to stay in touch!
We will send you occasional e-mails with gardening tips and information!


Digital Editions

Click on the cover to read now!

Home How-To How to prepare soil for planting

PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

How to prepare soil for planting

  •   Leave a Comment

Good soil preparation in the spring means great plants for years to come

by Steven Nikkila 

Remove all existing plants to be excluded from the garden. Pay special attention to remove all perennial weeds and their roots, such as the dandelion removed by this digging fork.
1. Remove all existing plants to be excluded from the garden. When you prepare soil, pay special attention to remove all perennial weeds and their roots, such as the dandelion removed by this digging fork.
When removing grass, cut it deep enough to remove all roots.
2. When removing grass, cut it deep enough to remove all roots.
Loosen the soil with a spading fork. Insert the fork as far as possible into the soil and “pop” it by pulling back on the handle.
3. Loosen the soil with a spading fork. Insert the fork as far as possible into the soil and “pop” it by pulling back on the handle.
“Pop” the entire garden. If the soil is hard-packed so it pops in clumps, do not break up the clumps. Just spread 2 to 3 inches of compost over the garden.
4. “Pop” the entire garden. If the soil is hard-packed so it pops in clumps, do not break up the clumps. Just spread 2 to 3 inches of compost over the garden.
Compost that falls between clumps of hard-packed soil allows air, water and space for the plant roots. Microorganisms in the soil, root growth, freezing, and thawing will gradually cause the clumps to crumble and mix with the compost. Additionally, if you don’t find any worms, you can add some to the soil. Worms are excellent aerators of soil and help in the decomposition of organic matter, which in turn helps the plants grow.
5. Compost that falls between clumps of hard-packed soil allows air, water and space for the plant roots. Microorganisms in the soil, root growth, freezing, and thawing will gradually cause the clumps to crumble and mix with the compost. Additionally, if you don’t find any worms, you can add some to the soil. Worms are excellent aerators of soil and help in the decomposition of organic matter, which in turn helps the plants grow.
Rototilling can loosen soil, but be aware of some drawbacks. First, if you need to loosen deeply, the tiller may not penetrate deep enough. Second, repeated tilling can pulverize the soil into near dust. Soil crumbs will collapse on themselves and air won’t be able to reach the plant roots—and air is essential. Third, you can glaze a clay soil with the fast-turning tines, causing drainage and root penetration problems. Yet another note of caution: If you till existing plants into the bed, they will likely come back, and you will later have to control them with herbicides, pulling or smothering. In this case, you may not be able to plant until later in the year.
6. Rototilling can loosen soil, but be aware of some drawbacks. First, if you need to loosen deeply, the tiller may not penetrate deep enough. Second, repeated tilling can pulverize the soil into near dust. Soil crumbs will collapse on themselves and air won’t be able to reach the plant roots—and air is essential. Third, you can glaze a clay soil with the fast-turning tines, causing drainage and root penetration problems. Yet another note of caution: If you till existing plants into the bed, they will likely come back, and you will later have to control them with herbicides, pulling or smothering. In this case, you may not be able to plant until later in the year.
Should you make a raised bed? A drainage test is the answer. A drainage test tells you how well your soil drains. Perennial plants need 18 inches of good drainage to thrive. Annuals and vegetables may not need such a deep bed. To do a drainage test: Dig an 18-inch deep hole and fill it with water.
7. Should you make a raised bed? A drainage test is the answer. A drainage test tells you how well your soil drains. Perennial plants need 18 inches of good drainage to thrive. Annuals and vegetables may not need such a deep bed. To do a drainage test: Dig an 18-inch deep hole and fill it with water.
Allow the hole to drain completely, then refill it with water. Time how long the hole takes to drain the second time. If it’s less than 24 hours, you have good drainage. If it’s not drained in 24 hours, measure how deep the water is in the hole and you can raise the bed by that many inches to get the required 18 inches of drainage. Alternatively, you could install drain tiles to help correct the drainage.
8. Allow the hole to drain completely, then refill it with water. Time how long the hole takes to drain the second time. If it’s less than 24 hours, you have good drainage. If it’s not drained in 24 hours, measure how deep the water is in the hole and you can raise the bed by that many inches to get the required 18 inches of drainage. Alternatively, you could install drain tiles to help correct the drainage.

Article and photos by Steven Nikkila, www.gardenatoz.com.

Elsewhere: Managing your summer compost

Previous Post: Marguerite daisy
Next Post: 2023 Flower & Vegetable Winners: Part 2 of 3

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Copyright 1996-2025 Michigan Gardener. All rights reserved.