I know the main benefit of watering with a soaker hose is that the water goes right to the plants’ roots where it is needed, but how do you know exactly how much water you are applying since you can’t really see the water being delivered?

Environmentally conscious gardeners love soaker hoses. Many of today’s soaker hoses are made from recycled car tires and are a great way to supply plants with a slow, deep, uniform watering with little runoff or waste.

Soaker hoses wet an area 1 to 3 feet wide along their length, depending on soil types. If your soil is heavy in clay, hoses should be spaced 2-3 feet apart for even coverage; loam soils 1-2 feet apart; and sandy soils 1 foot apart.

Hose length should not exceed 100 feet. However, multiple lengths of 100 feet (up to 6) may be split off a main feeder hose and run simultaneously. Under normal house water pressure, a 1/2 inch soaker hose will deliver about 1 gallon per minute per 100 feet of hose, which is equivalent to 1/2 inch of moisture in 100 minutes (per 100 feet of soaker hose).

I want to use only organic fertilizers on my garden. What should I use on my annuals to achieve the best blooms? What about my perennials?

All plants need a proper balance of nutrients to grow and flower well. The major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous and potash are required in the largest amounts by plants. Nitrogen is regarded as the most important element for healthy foliage production. Phosphorous is essential to strong root development and flowering. Potash strengthens stems and roots, contributes to disease resistance and winter hardiness. Many minor nutrients such as iron, manganese, zinc, etc. are equally important, but used by plants in much smaller amounts.

The point to remember is that a balance of nutrients is essential to good plant growth and flowering. There are many balanced, organic-based fertilizers on the market that would work well. They can be worked into beds when turning the soil in the spring and can be used monthly during the growing season. Foliage applications of liquid seaweed will help supply additional minor nutrients.

I want to plant a perennial garden in the dappled shade below a large, old maple tree. Digging around the tree is really difficult due to all the roots; is it O.K. to create sort of a “raised bed” by adding 12-18” of topsoil beneath the tree and gradually sloping it down from the trunk to ground level?

This is a very common problem facing gardeners who are fortunate enough to have these established gems in their yards. Unfortunately, there are no easy answers that can be used in all cases. As a general rule, simply adding large amounts of soil around trees can cause severe damage when done improperly. The degree of caution depends upon the tree species, age and vigor as well as the depth of the soil and location it is to be placed beneath the tree.

The most sensitive area is near the trunk of the tree (which is where most of us want to plant!). Soil piled against the bark can cause it to decay, while covering the roots may prevent proper air and water exchange.

An inch or two of good soil spread over an area is usually safe. If you wish to add more than that, save yourself future grief by first hiring a licensed arborist to evaluate your specific situation. They will be able to best assess how much soil you might be capable of adding without injuring your valuable tree. You will have to pay for the service, but it will be far less than the cost of removing a dead tree, not to mention the loss of a beautiful, well-established specimen.

I bought a green and white ground cover. The tag said it was Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ or “Snow on the Mountain.” My horticulture book says A. podagraria is called Bishop’s Weed or Gout Weed and that Snow on the Mountain is called Euphorbia marginata. I’m confused – please clarify.

Common plant names are a constant source of confusion in the gardening industry. The plant Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ has only one distinct botanical name. The confusion comes from the fact that it may have several common names such as those you listed. To make matters worse, the same common name may be given to several different plants throughout various parts of the country. With today’s demand for increased variety selection, you’re finding many more plants available with overlapping common names.

George Papadelis, from Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, adds: the common name “Snow on the Mountain” refers to both Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ and Euphorbia marginata. The Aegopodium is a perennial while the Euphorbia is an annual. Be careful with the Aegopodium, as it is very invasive and can be extremely difficult to get rid of. The annual Euphorbia may reseed itself from year to year, but invasiveness shouldn’t be a problem.

Why don’t my lilacs bloom? They were planted 4-5 years ago and they get plenty of sun. The shrubs are 4-6’ tall, the foliage is healthy, but there are no flowers. Please help.

Stubborn lilacs may refuse to bloom for a couple reasons. First off, a healthy, fast-growing lilac may have received too much fertilizer which is causing the plant to develop vegetatively rather than reproductively. In this case, reducing the amount of fertilization will help slow the growth. Sometimes inducing a small amount of stress may cause the plant to set flower buds. This can be accomplished with careful pruning or by withholding moisture during dry periods. Never let a plant go completely dry to the crispy stage, but a slight hint of wilt during the summer may just be the right incentive for enjoying blooms next spring.

The second reason for lilacs not blooming may be due to improper pruning. Flower buds begin developing during the summer as soon as the new growth begins to harden. Any pruning done from that time forward may remove the terminal buds containing the flowers. Remember, the best time to trim a lilac is just after flowering – that is, once yours begins to flower!

My tomatoes were stunted last year. How can I prevent it this year and ensure a good crop?

Tomatoes can be stunted for a number of reasons: 1) Planting when it is still too cold can stunt growth. 2) Root bound pots should have their roots cut or torn apart before they are planted so they can root out properly. 3) Nutrient deficiency–add compost and/or Canadian peat with a general purpose vegetable fertilizer. 4) Poor light–plants need six hours of sunshine and a good amount of water. Any of the above factors or a combination of them can cause stunting in new tomato plants.

I have Lilies and Tulips left over from Easter – what can I do to make sure they bloom again next year?

Leave the lillies and tulips in the house until the weather warms. Plant them outside, remove the flower heads and allow leaves and stem to yellow, then remove. Fertilize with bonemeal or Holland Bulb Booster. Most tulip varieties are not considered dependable perennials in Michigan. The chances of your tulips returning successfully for several years depends on whether or not sufficient food reserves can be returned to the bulb. This can be accomplished by cutting off the flowers as the petals drop (do not allow them to go to seed), fertilizng as soon as they finish flowering, and most importantly, leaving the foliage intact as long as possible. That will allow the bulbs to develop to their full potential, next year.

Most plant tags say that the plant requires “well-drained soil” or  “excellent drainage.”  What exactly does that mean?  How do I know if my soil is well-drained?

Plants that require well-drained soil are sensitive to prolonged periods of saturation since oxygen has been displaced from the soil pores. Only a few plants like willows and red-twig dogwood can tolerate this condition, while most others require much better drainage. To determine whether a soil is well-drained, first ask the question, “Do I ever see standing water in that spot?” If the answer is yes, then you’ll not want to consider this area well-drained. If no standing water occurs, dig a test hole about 12 inches deep and 16 inches across. Fill the hole with water and watch how long it takes to drain out. If the hole completely drains within a few hours then consider yours a well-drained soil. Keep in mind that these conditions can vary greatly from place to place within your yard, especially near low areas or where soil compaction may once have taken place. If you wish to plant in areas that do not drain as well, keep in mind that a very wide or elevated planting hole may be the key to establishing a plant in that situation.

Birds are nesting in my hanging planters.  I don’t want to harm them, but what can I do to discourage them?

You can discourage birds from nesting in hanging baskets by putting the basket on the ground for three or four days. Birds normally like to nest in high, protected areas.

I have a 3 year-old clematis that has never bloomed. Why not?

There may be a few reasons why a clematis may refuse to cooperate when it comes to flowering. One of the more common reasons is inadequate sunlight. Clematis should receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun to insure that they have enough energy to produce flower buds. Clematis foliage loves the sun, but their roots like cool and moist conditions, so be sure to provide shading for the base by placing another plant or object in front and by maintaining a 2-inch layer of mulch over the rooting area.

The other reasons for not flowering may include improper pruning, as well as damage due to winter exposure. Some clematis varieties flower on new wood, while other varieties produce their glorious flowers on old wood, or last years’ growth. If an “old wood” variety is cut back in the spring, then so goes the flowering for that season. In order to determine if your clematis blooms on old wood or new wood, wait for new growth to begin. Note whether the majority of shoots are coming from the ground or from the old vines. If the shoots are coming from the ground, the old vines may be cut down. If the new growth appears on the old vines, only prune dead wood.

Lastly, if your clematis is an old wood variety located in a winter exposed area, you might be losing stems to drying and cold damage. Large amounts of dead wood in the upper portions of the plant are an indicator of this condition. Without healthy old wood, these clematis are unlikely to bloom.