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PLEASE NOTE: In the autumn of 1995, we hatched the idea for a free, local gardening publication. The following spring, we published the first issue of Michigan Gardener magazine. Advertisers, readers, and distribution sites embraced our vision. Thus began an exciting journey of helping our local gardening community grow and prosper.
After 27 years, nearly 200 issues published, and millions of copies printed, we have decided it is time to end the publication of our Print Magazine and E-Newsletter.

Dormant pruning: Make a positive start to your gardening season

March 18, 2025   •   Leave a Comment

by Evelyn Koponen

As you look forward to a fresh gardening season, it is a good time to consider what you can do to improve the health and overall look of your landscape. A tree or shrub that is not maintaining the shape you desire, or has stopped producing as many flowers as it did in the past may need a good pruning. Trees and shrubs in dormancy can be pruned more aggressively, with less stress to the plant and minimal risk of disease because pests that would attack these trees and shrubs are dormant as well. An aggressive dormant pruning will promote more vigorous growth in the spring, which can bring new life and shape to a tired area of your garden.

To encourage and support you in your pruning ventures, here are some standard pruning guidelines for shrubs.

Step 1: Analyze

Be familiar with the plants that you are pruning. This seems obvious, but misidentification can happen—common names can be very similar and confusing, and different pruning forms may be needed on variations of the same plant type. Doing your own research on the best time of year to prune your particular shrub is important. For example, oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) and smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens) should not be pruned at the same time. Oakleaf hydrangea flowers on old wood, so pruning right after flowering is appropriate. Smooth hydrangea flowers on new wood, so cutting back severely in the late fall or early spring is ideal.

Make sure that you know your reason for pruning. Consider the whole of the plant, identify dead wood and potentially diseased areas that need to be removed, and plan how you want the end shape of the plant to be. Healthy, corrective shaping of a shrub or tree can take several years, so be patient with your plant and with yourself.

Step 2: Tools

For pruning most shrubs, a few simple tools will go a long way. On bigger limbs, use a sharp hand saw. On smaller branches, use bypass pruners and bypass loppers. These should cover most of your pruning needs. To help prevent the spread of disease, it is a good habit to keep a spray bottle with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol on hand, to sanitize your tools after pruning a shrub or tree. Using proper tools that are sharp is essential to prevent jagged cuts or crushed branch tissues that will prevent the cut from healing over.

Basic tools for dormant pruning: a sharp hand saw, small bypass pruners, and bypass loppers.
Basic pruning tools: a sharp hand saw, small bypass pruners, and bypass loppers.

Step 3: Making cuts and removing branches

To help your plant recover quickly and efficiently from pruning, make clean, slightly angled cuts just above a bud or branch collar. Leaving torn cuts and stumps heightens the likelihood of disease and further dieback. Giving your cut a slight angle will help rainfall drain from the cut instead of pooling and causing rot or disease.

Make clean, slightly angled cuts just above a bud or branch collar.
Make clean, slightly angled cuts just above a bud or branch collar.

A simple pruning consists of removing any diseased or dead branches all the way to the base of the shrub. If the plant experienced fungal problems the previous season, remove infected plant parts and either burn or throw away any debris to prevent spreading fungal disease to other areas of your garden.

If your shrub is dense and congested, make thinning cuts on the interior of the plant, back to the main stem.
If your shrub is dense and congested, make thinning cuts on the interior of the plant, back to the main stem.

If two branches are crossing, choose which branch has the better form and then remove the other crossing branch. The same idea applies to any branches that are rubbing each other. Keeping a bowl shape in mind, make thinning cuts to your shrub by removing one-third of the oldest, largest branches. This encourages new, vigorous growth. It is important to remind yourself, throughout pruning a plant, of what shape you are attempting to achieve in the end.

In some cases, coppicing your shrub may be a good option. Coppicing is cutting the whole shrub back to nearly ground level, sometimes referred to as “stooling” a plant. This promotes entirely new growth and is a good practice for shrubs that are becoming unmanageable in size and density, or for shrubs which benefit from a flush of new growth for flowering on new wood. Butterfly bushes and spireas are a couple shrubs that benefit from coppicing.

A butterfly bush before coppicing.
A butterfly bush before coppicing.
The same butterfly bush after coppicing, which promotes entirely new growth.
The same butterfly bush after coppicing, which promotes entirely new growth.

Entering the world of ornamental trees may require more research on your part. There are a multitude of styles and techniques depending on what tree you have and what you are trying to achieve. Reaching out to a local professional gardener for advice or an initial pruning can help start you on your way to becoming a pruning expert yourself.

Evelyn Koponen studied rural development and had several jobs in cultural and social development before changing careers to horticulture. Evelyn was able to bring her previous experience from rural permaculture development and greenhouse work to Atzinger Gardens, where she is a head gardener.

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Filed Under: Uncategorized

Garden Profile: The circle garden

September 9, 2024   •   Leave a Comment

Lynn O’Shaughnessy’s breathtaking garden layout is loaded with native plants and is a haven for pollinators

Lynn O’Shaughnessy’s circle garden, as seen from above.
Lynn O’Shaughnessy’s circle garden, as seen from above. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy

by Lisa Steinkopf

If a plane flew over Lynn O’Shaughnessy’s property, I’m sure it would circle and fly over again, just to see the spectacle. Lynn’s circle garden is beautiful from ground level, but is stunning from above. After initially seeing Lynn’s garden on a tour, we later met to talk about what inspired her to build the circle garden and why she decided to plant only native plants.

The very first time I attended a garden walk at Lynn’s was before the circle garden was built. Her sunny gardens were bursting with color and her hosta garden in the woods was exceptional. But the shade got deeper and the deer hungrier, so she decided to concentrate on a new garden. (That said, she also is revamping the hosta area into a native planting.)

The second time I toured her property, the hosta area was roped off, while her perennial beds and the new circle garden were the stars of the show. Lynn was giving a circle garden tour to a few attendees. I took photos and listened from afar, and could feel the pure joy and love of the garden radiating from Lynn as she described the new space. She has a passion for native plants and has created an exceptional garden to demonstrate that native plants don’t have to look like roadside weeds. The gorgeous garden is both well planned and well executed.

The entrance to the circle garden on a foggy morning. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
The entrance arch is covered with virgin’s bower vine (Clematis virginiana). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Inside the circle garden in full bloom, with Lynn’s greenhouse in the background. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
Lynn expresses the joy she has for her native garden. Next to her is the native cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf

Garden conception

What brought about her interest in native plants? In 2018, she investigated how her garden could become a monarch waystation, and began adding plants that monarchs would love. She started seeing other butterflies as well. The new plants she had incorportated were natives, and she was seeing more butterflies than ever. She decided to start gardening with a purpose—to support the pollinators.

In the winter of 2019, a friend showed her an aerial photo of the lavender labyrinth at Cherry Point Farm in Shelby, Michigan. The center was a circular garden with a 12-point geometric design. Instantly, she knew this would be the garden design for her native plants.

She researched the layout and found it was a sacred geometry design known as torus vesica piscis. Using the design as the center, she created a vision board with pictures of the many native plants she wanted to incorporate into the design.

An early design drawing for the circle garden. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
This vision board shows the initial idea coming to life. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
A monarch butterfly on a purple coneflower. Look closely to notice his small friend on the flower. / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Lynn’s garden is designated a Monarch Waystation. / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
The circle garden beds are edged with brick and the walks are gravel, so no lawn mowing is needed. / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf

Building the garden

Lynn created the garden independently, except for the ground preparation, fencing, and irrigation. The garden is 100 feet wide and the fencing keeps the deer, turkeys, and rabbits out. The robins are still a problem, scratching and throwing soil onto the walkways. Lynn lives on 10 acres, so there are plenty of critters to keep out of the garden.

The contractors removed eight inches of topsoil and replaced it with sandy loam. They also installed an irrigation system. The rest was done with Lynn’s muscle power using a shovel and wheelbarrow. The walkways between the beds are gravel instead of grass so there would be no need to mow. Lynn chose brick edging to keep it neat and clean (the robins don’t understand that part).

It took her three months to get the garden ready to start planting the next year. The next spring, she worked for two more months and the circle garden was finished. She purchased some plants from native plant nurseries, and also grew many things, sowing seeds in her greenhouse. One of the helpful garden features for visitors is that every plant has a sign with its common and botanical name. The entire garden consists of perennials, except for two shrubs: shrubby St. John’s wort (Hypericum prolificum) and New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus). She has flowers blooming from April through the fall and everything is cut down to six inches in late fall.

Spotted bee balm (Monarda punctata) with a great black wasp. / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Mexican hat or long-headed coneflower (Ratibida columnifera). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
The common eastern bumble bee. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
Purple prairie clover (Dalea purpurea). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Clustered mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Wild senna (Senna hebecarpa). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Lynn uses no pesticides in her pollinator garden. / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf

Pollinator lessons

This native garden is grown for pollinators. I saw so many as I walked through the garden with Lynn. She knew them all. How did she learn to identify them? She discovered the website www.bugguide.net, created by Iowa University. You can send in your “bug” picture, and they will do their best to identify it.

As we walked around the garden, here are a few things I learned from Lynn, in no particular order:

  • Bunnies don’t eat bee balm (Monarda).
  • Wool carder bees use lamb’s ear wool for their nests.
  • The clustered mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) has the most diverse selection of pollinators. Lynn photo-documented 26 different pollinators on it while it was blooming.
  • Golden Alexander (Zizia aurea) is a host plant for the black swallowtail, a resident in every Michigan county.
  • Lynn’s favorite flower is bottle gentian (Gentiana andrewsii) because the blue flowers never fully open. In the late summer, our native bumblebee pollinates it by pushing its way in. She likes this plant’s interesting story.
  • White turtlehead (Chelone glabra) is the host of the Baltimore checkerspot butterfly. The caterpillars overwinter in the leaf litter and become butterflies in the spring. This is unusual, as most butterflies don’t overwinter as larvae. This is a good reason to leave your flower beds messy in the fall.
  • I saw many different insects and many looked like bees to me. Yet, many were flies. How do you tell the difference? Flies have short antennae, two wings, and big eyes. Bees, on the other hand, have longer antennae, four wings, and small, oblong eyes.
  • Northern blazing star (Liatris) is the biggest butterfly magnet when blooming. The other plants are ignored when this is in bloom. Lynn took a photo with 11 monarchs in the picture at one time. 
  • Pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea) is the host for the American lady butterfly. Lynn has seen 40 to 50 caterpillars on the plant, and they completely defoliated it. The plant recovered and bloomed 4 to 5 weeks later.
Rattlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
A midsummer sunny day in the circle garden. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
A pollinator on white turtlehead (Chelone glabra). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Summer sunrise at the circle garden and adjacent pond. / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
Tiger swallowtail butterfly on swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata). / Photo: Lynn O’Shaughnessy
Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf
Pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea). / Photo: Lisa Steinkopf

In its fourth year, the garden looked amazing and seemed much more established than a four-year-old garden. Lynn takes a drone photo every Friday to record the progression of growth and flowering. She hosts garden clubs and other groups, giving them tours of the garden (by appointment only). I learned so much from Lynn about pollinators and native plants. If you have a chance to tour her garden, don’t miss it. It is an amazingly beautiful place, buzzing with life.

Lisa Steinkopf is The Houseplant Guru (www.thehouseplantguru.com).

Filed Under: Profile

Garden Profile: Ponds, hostas, fairies and more

April 24, 2024   •   Leave a Comment

After a career in horticulture, Julie Buttigieg now focuses on her own garden and the results are magnificent

The Buttigieg koi pond is surrounded with beautiful plantings of annuals, perennials, conifers, and shrubs.

Text and photos by Lisa Steinkopf

As you drive by the Buttigieg home, it only takes one glance to know a serious gardener lives there. Yet the front yard is just a hint of what the back garden holds. On this three-acre property, there is not only an extensive fairy garden and hundreds of hostas, but also a roughly 16,000-gallon koi pond. What’s even more amazing: in 2015 none of it existed except the front yard cherry tree. Two years later in 2017, the garden was on its first garden walk.

The natural woods serves as a backdrop for this glorious perennial border.
This fountain and colorful bed greets guests at the front walkway entrance.
After a career in horticulture, Julie Buttigieg is now able to devote her time to her own wonderful garden and pond.

Let’s start at the beginning of Julie Buttigieg’s journey in horticulture. She attended Michigan State University where she studied floriculture. From there she landed a job at Weber Brothers Greenhouses, where she worked until it closed when I-696 was built. Originally from Dearborn, her mom told her about an employment ad for a horticulturist at Greenfield Village. That was 1977. Julie ended up working at Greenfield Village for 38 years, retiring in 2015. Mom knows best, right?

It was originally a florist position, making flower arrangements for different areas in the village and banquets held there. She was also an assistant in the greenhouse, planting window boxes and hanging baskets, and caring for the gardens around the planters. Julie also taught adult education classes, including wreath making, table centerpieces, and Christmas décor. In the early 1980s when the greenhouse manager retired, Julie took over and oversaw all the containers and gardens in the village, including growing the plants for them.

A progression of ponds

Julie and her husband lived in Livonia until 2015. They had a koi pond there—I remember visiting the garden on pond tours in 2012 and 2014. Their garden also had been on the Livonia garden walk in 1998 and 2002. At that time, their yard wasn’t particularly large and was filled with a swing set and sandbox for many years for their young son. When those playthings were no longer needed, building a pond became Julie’s focus.

She started small with a 300-gallon pond. When that became too tight, she moved up to 1,500 gallons. Then that became a 6,000-gallon pond, which was still too cramped—the growing fish were knocking the plant pots off the underwater shelves. The new 8,500-gallon pond had no shelves, so the plants couldn’t be knocked over. Then with retirement, Julie and her husband decided to move to a larger piece of property in Fenton. Happily, the new owners of their Livonia home kept the pond and have also been on the pond tour.

The view of the pond from the top patio shows how large the koi are. The shade sails protect the fish from the sun.
On this hilly property, steps lead to the upper patio and pond.
This boulder wall was installed to make a flat area around the pond. 
A perfectly placed bench to sit and enjoy the pond, the fish, and the waterfall sounds. 

When the Buttigiegs decided to move to a new house, they built the pond first to move their koi, which are now 18 to 20 years old and up to 38 inches long. They bought the new house in October 2014, but didn’t move in until the next July when the pond was finished. The koi are much loved pets and the couple wanted to be sure the fish had a new home to live in before the move. Amazingly, these fish can live 60 to 80 years.

This also gave the Buttigiegs time to dig up and divide the perennials in their previous garden and bring them to the new property. As far as the new pond goes, it is seven feet deep and holds 15,800 gallons of water. It is a long way from the 300-gallon pond Julie started with. There are drains and aerators to take the waste out and filter the water (using a bakki tower system). During winter the fish stay in the pond, which is covered. The water temperature is lowered slowly to 48 degrees starting in October and then gradually warmed back up starting in March. The fish rest and eat nothing for about two months of the year.

Plants and collections

Another collection that moved from Livonia to their new garden was an extensive fairy garden. A castle is the focal point and was the piece that turned Julie on to fairy gardening. The current fairy garden is much larger than before and includes many small vignettes. The large house and castle stay outside all winter, but the rest is put away—a big job.

One of the fairy garden cottages.
This fairy garden scene has plenty of miniature accoutrements.

When they chose this property, it was bare and hilly, so the Buttigiegs hired professionals to do some hardscaping. They had the pond dug, a fence installed around the pond, and stone steps and a patio constructed. Two large boulder walls were built to make level areas for the patio and the area around the pond. Then Julie filled the garden with lovely perennials, shrubs, and annuals. The garden became her new full-time job; she now loves working in her own garden.

Julie’s husband made these pedestals for her container gardens, complete with lazy Susans.
Hostas play a large part in the planting scheme, while annuals provide pops of color.

One of her favorite plants is coleus—she has collected over 75 varieties. Julie takes cuttings of each one every fall and grows them under lights in her basement. She nurtures 10 flats of coleus cuttings, which amounts to 320 plants. She also has a fuchsia called ‘Billy Green’ that she has taken cuttings from and overwintered for 20 years. Julie also overwinters the Rex begonias she grows in pots in the mixed border.

This bright planting includes many of Julie’s coleus, New Guinea impatiens, and ‘Billy Green’ fuchsia in the upper right corner.
Julie’s grandma’s Christmas cactus, nearly 70 years old, spends summers outside.

Her third-generation Christmas cactus goes outside for the summer. This special plant belonged to her grandmother. Julie’s mom then took it to her schoolroom for many years, but after she retired, Julie inherited the plant and has now enjoyed it for over 20 years. I love family plants and the stories behind them.

Repelling the deer

On the Buttigieg property, one of the notable things was the lack of chewed plants by the deer. We all know hostas are deer magnets and Julie’s garden has hundreds of them. So, of course, I asked her secret. It is an intensive regimen that includes Bobbex animal repellent, Milorganite, and Green Screen deer and rabbit repellent. She uses all three deterrents to keep those pesky herbivores away. Milorganite, a granular “aromatic” fertilizer, is scattered in the garden every week like chicken feed. Maybe that’s one of the reasons her plants are so beautiful. She also sprays Bobbex every 7 to 10 days if it is rainy or twice a month if it is drier, as it eventually washes off. She uses over six gallons each time. And lastly, she hangs Green Screen in small bags on hooks around the garden. This regime seems to work, as I saw not one nibbled plant.

This lush hosta bed is well protected with bags of animal repellent hanging on hooks.

I also noticed the absence of mosquitoes. While Julie doesn’t spray for them, the homeowner’s association does. She requested that they not spray her garden, and they honor that, but the spray around the perimeter seems to work. Julie uses no insecticides or herbicides. She has dogs and, of course, fish, so her yard cannot be sprayed. If sprays landed in the pond, they could kill the fish.

This amazing garden filled with gorgeous plants, fanciful fairies, and mature fish is not to be missed. Julie, a member of the Open Gate Garden Club, works in the garden 10 to 12 hours a day in the spring and 2 to 3 hours daily in the summer. This is a well-tended garden, and it shows!

Lisa Steinkopf is The Houseplant Guru (www.thehouseplantguru.com).

Filed Under: Profile

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